20 years as food writer reaps many delicious rewards
Award-winning chef Jeremiah Tower was once asked why he did what he did. His response was, “With a master’s degree in architecture it’s a little hard to explain, but I love it.”
He took the words right out of my mouth.
When I came to Savannah four decades ago, a master’s degree in architecture in one hand and license to practice in the other, I would never in my wildest dreams have imagined that I’d spend fully half of that time as a food writer for the Savannah Morning News.
But nine cookbooks and over 500 columns later, here I am.
It began in 2000, with a call from then features editor Anne Guidera, asking on behalf of managing editor Dan Suwyn if I’d be interested in writing a regular cooking feature for the Morning News. I was on my fourth cookbook and had recipe-writing down cold, so I thought: how hard could it be?
Well. Journalism has been called literature in a hurry, a truth I soon learned the hard way. But harsh learning curve notwithstanding, it didn’t take me long to fall in love with this job.
The biggest challenge was illustrating the feature. Telling someone how to cook by writing a clear recipe is one thing; making it look good so they’ll want to cook it is another. I could never have done it without the help of really good photographers.
Food photography isn’t rocket science; any decent photographer will take a decent food shot. But to take a great one requires an instinct that not everyone possesses. Luckily, I worked with staff photographers who had it.
For the first year, it was Stephen Berend, then John Carrington stepped in, with Scott Bryant and Rich Burkhardt filling in. But one by one they left the paper, and before I knew it, the adventure had taken another unexpected turn when I found myself taking my own pictures.
There was a steep learning curve and I didn’t always get the picture I imagined, but to my surprise, I loved that, too.
Little did I realize that, another decade later I’d still be at it, sharing what I know about cooking, trading recipes, and helping you trouble-shoot problems and get the most from your time in the kitchen. I could’ve done it forever.
But nothing lasts forever and, as the old saying goes, all good things come to an end. This column is my last, and marks the end of those years of sharing through this feature.
Thank you for following and reading. Thank you for stopping me in the grocery and on the street to say kind things and offer encouragement. Thank you for challenging me with your questions, new ideas, and culinary problems.
But most of all, thank you for letting me share your kitchens by putting my thoughts to use in them, because that’s what really counts. It has meant the world to me and I’ll miss it.
I’ve loved being a part of your lives.
Food writer and culinary educator Damon Lee Fowler will still be right here in Savannah and has no plans to stop writing about cooking. To discover more about him, share more of his recipes and stories, and stay in touch, find him through his website, damonleefowler.com.
RECIPES
One last sharing of recipes before I go: Twenty years and more than 500 columns adds up to around 2,000 recipes, both of my own creating and of friends and colleagues. To cull down to a handful of favorites was daunting. But the fall-winter holidays are my favorite season for cooking, so here are a few favorites from holiday columns over the last 10 years.
Frozen Mexican Chocolate
When entertaining, I look for desserts that can be done days ahead and don’t require a lot of last-minute fuss. This simple frozen mousse fits the bill and is easy and impressive. It was shared in December 2019 as a no-fuss dessert for New Year’s Eve. Serves 4.
Ingredients:
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 8 ounces coarsely chopped semisweet chocolate or chips
• 3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, preferably Mexican Vanilla (available at specialty grocers)
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Tiny pinch cayenne
Directions:
1. Cover and chill 1 1/2 cups cream. Bring remaining 1/2 cup cream to simmer in small heavy-bottomed pan over medium-low heat. Add chocolate and heat until softened. Remove from heat and whisk until smooth. Whisk egg yolks in mixing bowl. Whisk in big spoonful of warm chocolate, then vanilla, cinnamon, and cayenne. Stir in remaining chocolate. Stir until cooled.
2. Whip 1 cup cream until it holds firm peaks. Stir a heaped spoonful of it into yolk mixture, then gradually fold in the remainder. Divide among 4 8-ounce ramekins. Refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours, then cover with plastic wrap and freeze 4-6 hours or overnight.
3. When ready to serve, unwrap and let sit at room temperature 15 minutes. Whip remaining 1/2 cup cream to stiff peaks and top each serving with a dollop or piped rosette of cream.
Broiled Oysters with Bacon and Green Onions
Bacon and oysters are a marriage made in heaven. Here, chopped bacon, scallions, and crumbs top broiled oysters on the half-shell from an October 2014 column. Serves 4–6 as a first course.
Ingredients:
• 24 live oysters in shell
• 1/4 cup finely minced thick-cut bacon (about 2 slices, see notes)
• 1/4 cup finely minced green scallion tops (about 2)
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2 cup cracker crumbs
• Whole black pepper in a mill
• 1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges
Directions:
1. Position rack 4–6 inches from heat source and preheat broiler 15 minutes. Shuck oysters and cut loose from shell, leaving them in deep halves. Discard shallow half. Spread 1/2-inch-thick layer rock salt on rimmed baking sheet or line with crumpled foil. Press oyster shells into salt or foil until level and stable.
2. Mix together bacon, onion, lemon zest, and crumbs. Season well with pepper and toss to blend. Sprinkle bacon-crumb mixture evenly but lightly over oysters: don’t put on too thick; it’s meant to enhance flavor, not bury it.
3. Broil until bacon-crumb topping is golden-brown and the gills are lightly curled, about 4 minutes. Serve at once with lemon wedges.
Note: To mince bacon without losing your religion, put it in freezer until very firm, about half an hour, and use sharp ceramic knife. Bacon won’t stick to ceramic blade as much as steel blade.
Three Fat (Cornish) Hens, French Style
In the Twelve Days of Christmas, an overzealous true love presented three “fat” hens on the third day, which today is more commonly “French” hens. So, just for fun, I developed this recipe for a column that appeared on the third day of Christmas in 2017.
The usual portion is one hen per person, but that’s too much for one person to stuff away by himself. With potatoes, pasta, or rice and a vegetable, half a bird is plenty. Serves 6.
Ingredients:
• 3 Rock Cornish hens, thawed under refrigeration if frozen
• Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
• 3 small shallots, trimmed, quartered, and peeled
• 3-6 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled but left whole
• 3 sprigs each parsley, rosemary, sage, and thyme
• 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) for the gravy
• 1 large onion, halved, peeled, and diced large
• 2 ribs celery, washed, strung, and diced large
• 2 large carrots, peeled and diced
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup chicken broth
• 1 rounded tablespoon instant-blending flour
Directions:
1. Position rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 450° F. Wipe birds well with paper towels. Rub inside cavities with salt and freshly milled pepper. Divide shallot, garlic and herbs and truss (I just tie legs together, but you can sew up cavity with trussing needle and twine).
2. Rub a small roasting pan with butter. Put in onion, celery, and carrots and level to cover pan. Set hens on top and pour half of melted butter over. Season outside of birds with salt and pepper. Bake uncovered 30 minutes to sear skin, basting 2-3 times with more butter.
3. Reduce heat to 350 degrees. Pour remaining butter over birds. Pour wine around sides. Bake, basting occasionally, until cooked through (thermometer inserted into inside of thigh without touching bone should read 165 degrees). Remove birds to platter and Let rest 15 minutes.
4. Strain pan juices into fat separator, pressing vegetables to extract as much as possible. Discard vegetables. Put pan over medium heat and deglaze with broth. Add to strained juices, then add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to pan. Melt, and using flat whisk or wooden spoon, mix in flour. Heat until smooth and bubbly, stirring. Slowly add liquids and bring to simmer, stirring. Simmer until thick and flour has lost raw taste, about 3-4 minutes. Pour into warm bowl or sauceboat.
5. If liked split birds in half for ease of serving, using sharp knife or poultry shears. Serve with gravy passed separately.
Prosciutto-Wrapped Pork Tenderloins
Pork tenderloins are the equivalent of boned and skinned chicken breast: easy and convenient, but not long on flavor. Wrapping it in prosciutto boosts the flavor, as does a squeeze of lemon juice. First shared in an April 2013 column. Serves 6-8.
Ingredients:
• 1 pair pork tenderloins, about 2-to-2½ pounds
• Olive oil
• Whole black pepper in a mill
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 3 large cloves garlic, finely minced
• 10-12 very thin slices prosciutto, preferably Prosciutto di Parma
• 1 cup dry white vermouth
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 lemons, cut into wedges, for serving
Directions:
1. Trim tenderloins (see Tenderloin Basics, above). Rub entire surface lightly with oil. Sprinkle entire surface with pepper, rosemary and garlic, patting into surface. Wrap each tenderloin with prosciutto, completely covering surface. Secure in 5-6 places with twine. Set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 425° F. Rub roasting pan with oil and put in tenderloin. Drizzle with more oil. Roast 20 minutes and reduce heat to 350° F. Roast until desired internal temperature is reached, around 135 degrees for medium (it will continue cooking as it rests), about 15-20 minutes longer.
3. Remove to platter, loosely cover with foil, and let rest 15 minutes. Deglaze roasting pan over direct medium heat with vermouth and let boil until liquid is reduced by half and lightly thickened. Add accumulated juices from platter, turn off heat, and swirl in butter. Pour into warm bowl or sauceboat. Thinly slice, surround with lemons, and serve with sauce passed separately.
Penne with Ham, Rosemary, and Tomatoes
This hearty pasta was an impromptu Christmas Eve supper years ago that was later included in my last book, “Ham: A Savor the South Cookbook” (UNC Press/2017). It was shared in a January 2018 column on hearty winter pastas. Serves 4-6.
Ingredients:
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter or 1 1/2 tablespoons butter and 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup small-diced cooked ham
• 1 medium yellow onion, split lengthwise, peeled, and diced small
• 1 large or 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
• 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh rosemary
• 1/2 cup dry white vermouth
• 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped, with their juices
• Salt
• 1 pound penne or other short, tubular pasta
• 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Directions:
1. Heat butter (or butter and oil) in large (3 quart) saute pan over medium heat until hot and bubbly. Add the ham and sauté until beginning to color on edges. Add onion and saute until golden, about 3-5 minutes. Add garlic, pepper flakes, and rosemary and toss 1/2 minute.
2. Add vermouth and bring to boil, stirring and scraping pan to release cooking residue. Let boil until mostly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, bring to boil, and reduce heat to simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 20 minutes. Turn off heat.
3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to rolling boil in 6- to 8-quart pot. Stir in small handful salt and pasta. Cook until al dente using package directions as rough guide. When pasta is almost done, gently reheat sauce over medium low heat.
4. When pasta is ready, drain quickly, being careful not to over-drain, and toss with sauce. Sprinkle 1/2 cup cheese over, toss, and serve immediately, passing remaining cheese separately.
Cream of Parsnip Soup
I love purees and over the years shared a lot of good ones, but this one from a December 2016 column is a particular favorite. If you want to dress it up, just before serving it add a pint of oysters that have been simmered in their own liquor until plumped and then thoroughly drained. Serves 6.
Ingredients:
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 medium yellow onion, trimmed, split, peeled and thinly sliced
• 4 cups peeled, sliced parsnips, (1 1/4 pounds, or about 5)
• 4 cups chicken broth
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 sprigs thyme or 2 teaspoons dried thyme, tied in a cheesecloth bundle or in a tea-ball
• Salt and whole white pepper in a mill
• 1 1/2-to-2 cups whole milk or half-and-half
• Croutons (recipe follows)
• 3 tablespoons minced chives, flat leaf parsley, or thyme leaves (or a blend)
Directions:
1. Warm butter in heavy-bottomed 3 1/2- to 4-quart saucepan or Dutch oven over low heat. Add onion and sweat until softened and translucent, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add parsnips, toss well, and let heat through.
2. Add broth and herbs, raise heat to medium high, and bring to boil. Adjust heat to simmer, season with salt and white pepper, and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Puree in batches with blender or food processor. (Can be made 2-3 days ahead: let cool, cover, and refrigerate.)
3. Return soup to pot and reheat over medium low heat, stirring often. Thin with milk as needed and heat through. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve garnished with croutons, a sprinkling of herbs, and, if liked, a light grinding of white pepper.
To Make Croutons: these make any soup or salad special. Cut enough stale home-styled bread into small cubes to make 2 cups. Preheat oven to 300° F. Put 3 tablespoons butter on rimmed baking sheet and bake until just melted. Add bread and toss to evenly coat. Bake, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 20 to 30 minutes.
Curried Turkey (Or Other Poultry)
For the last of your Christmas dinner leftovers: A big dish of curry is an elegant way to use up leftover roast poultry. Best of all, the sauce takes only minutes to put together. First shared in a December 2013 column. Serves about 8.
Ingredients:
• 1/2 cup Madeira or dry sherry
• 1/2 cup raisins, golden raisins, or currants
• 2 medium onions, peeled and diced
• 2 medium tart apples, cored and diced
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1-2 cloves garlic, minced (to taste)
• 1-3 rounded tablespoons Madras curry powder (to taste)
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 cups heavy cream
• Salt
• 4 cups diced cooked turkey, goose, chicken, or duck
• 2 tablespoons minced flat leaf parsley, optional
• 8 cups cooked white rice
Directions:
1. Pour wine over raisins and soak 30 minutes. Saute onion, apple, and butter in large, deep skillet or saute pan over medium heat, tossing and stirring, until golden, about 5-8 minutes. Add garlic and curry powder and stir until smooth and fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle in flour and stir until smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, until bubbly and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
2. Slowly whisk in milk and bring to boil, stirring constantly. Simmer until thickened, stir in cream, and let it come back to a simmer. Drain raisins, reserving wine, and add to sauce. Bring back to a simmer, reduce heat, and simmer gently until quite thick, 5-8 minutes.
3. Stir in wine used to soak raisins and simmer 2-3 minutes. Fold in meat and season lightly with salt. Simmer until sauce is bubbly and meat his hot through, about 5 minutes.
4. Taste and adjust salt and curry, simmer half a minute longer, and then transfer to warm platter or chafing dish. Sprinkle with parsley if liked and serve with hot white rice.
