September 15, 2025

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Free For All Food

How a single Toronto bar pivoted to develop into a faux Italian restaurant with actually good spaghetti

How 1 Toronto bar pivoted to develop into a pretend Italian restaurant with actually great spaghetti

Emily and Josh LeBlanc are the partner and wife workforce powering Bar Mordecai, a Budapest Hotel-motivated speakeasy on Dundas West that opened a month in advance of Covid strike. Given that then they have performed a whole lot of regrouping and rethinking, which include their most current innovation. West Facet Maria’s is an old-school (but also new faculty because it’s digital) Italian eatery that could be Toronto’s to start with ever fictional cafe. How does that do the job exactly? We observed out.

Action 1: Go back to the drawing board (yet again)

9 months into the pandemic and the LeBlancs have executed more pivots than a specialist determine skater. Flash again to July when Bar Mordecai partnered with Unboxed Grocery to build Venice Seashore Bar in an unused whole lot throughout the road. Getting their personal CaféTO permit was challenging by Bar Mordecai’s corner area, but it lastly arrived via in September. Permit in hand, they introduced a incredibly hot drinks (and heat blankies) system on a heated patio in October…and then along arrived lockdown: section deux. “We understood that we needed to figure out anything that would not have to improve each individual couple of weeks depending on the hottest restrictions,” states Josh.

The caesar salad is an anchovy-cost-free affair. $11.
Step 2: Give the people today the ease and comfort they crave

In contemplating a shift to takeout and shipping and delivery, the LeBlancs determined that the Bar Mordecai menu (a minor bit fancy, elaborate plating) wasn’t a excellent healthy. “We talked about what type of food items people—what we ourselves—are genuinely craving right now, and we also seemed at what was carrying out effectively on delivery apps,” says Emily. The response: lower-vital classics like burgers, chicken, sandwiches and pizza. They consulted with their chef Brian Ho, who has a history in Italian cuisine (and a suggest crimson sauce recipe) and pretty shortly the idea begun to occur jointly. “We begun thinking about that neighbourhood Italian restaurant—the 1 with checkered tablecloths, the form of put you went with your household as a child,” claims Josh. Ho’s menu is a mix of the simply cannot miss out on classics—garlic bread, bolognese, baked ziti, veal parm—along with some more ingenious honest. An Italian poutine subs out the gravy for (you guessed it) purple sauce, and the Unachievable Spaghetti Bolognese (manufactured with Unachievable vegan meat product) would idiot any unsuspecting carnivore.

In this article we have a mountain of meat-sauced spaghetti. $20.
An buy of rapini, since veggies. $10.
Phase 3: If you just can’t make it, pretend it

“Normally when you are opening a new cafe, you start off with a thought and then you operate it out—the food, but also the décor, the sense of the place,” suggests Emily. Recent restrictions signify an precise cafe does not make a whole lot of feeling, but that didn’t halt the LeBlancs from thinking about just about every element. “We went rather deep into this,” says Emily. “West Facet Maria’s is the type of location where they have crayons on the table, where by everyone appreciates everyone. Fifty percent the staff members are adolescents and the other fifty percent are life span servers. The bartender is likely courting the head server—and they’re often fighting.”

The veal parm sandwich. $16.
Step 4: Shell out tribute to the people today who obtained you there

The title begun off as a joke. “I said, instead of East Side Mario’s, what about West Side Maria’s?” claims Josh. But the a lot more they thought about it, the additional it built perception. “First of all, it is in the west stop, but more importantly, our landlord and our house manager are both equally named Maria and they have been so astounding and supportive through all of this, so that was seriously the clincher.”

Action 5: Continue to keep the little ones satisfied

In preserving with the family members pleasant topic, the two shipping and delivery and takeout orders occur with crayon packs for the kiddos (and adult colouring enthusiasts, hey it’s wholesome at-residence entertainment). In the new 12 months, the strategy is to increase an “ambiance deal,” total with a candle, some wine and a checkered tablecloth. (Until eventually then, you can up the romance element by enjoying your spaghetti Woman and the Tramp-design).

Chef Brian Ho

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