Claudio’s is all about Italian cuisine and hospitality

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It’s like eating food prepared by a talented nonna, Diane Galambos writes.

By Diane GalambosContributing Columnist

Wed., April 6, 2022timer4 min. read

I’ve written before about my memories of James Street North and the Armoury. That neighbourhood was also, at one time, home to a Hungarian butcher shop and a Hungarian coffee house and bakery — the latter in the space now occupied by Claudio’s Ristorante — part of an urban renewal trend.

Claudio’s was established in 2010 on Jackson Street by Claudio and Kristine Andreis. Plans to move to the James North location they rented in November 2019 encountered obstacles. Leaving aside the impact of the pandemic, Claudio — the restaurant’s namesake — passed away in January 2022. Tributes referred to his passion “for all things Italian … (and) his storytelling and memories which were not only entertaining but weaved in history, sports, politics and a healthy sense of humour.”

His wife, Kristine, is carrying on to honour his dream.

The couple’s hospitality journey began in Toronto where Claudio was a partner in Corso Italiano. Kristine says the first time she laid eyes on him she knew she’d marry him. She is Croatian and her grandmother wanted her to marry within the culture. Once she learned that Claudio had been born in Vatican City, Kristine says he could do no wrong in her grandmother’s eyes.

Once together, Claudio handled the business side and Kristine left an office job to tackle the cooking. Realizing how much she loved feeding people, she accumulated a rich bank of experiences including fine dining kitchens and work in Holland, Macao, Columbia and, of course, Italy. The restaurant has the distinction of “Ospitalita Italiana” accreditation recognizing gourmet excellence built on tradition. Not knowing this while dining, we were rating our experience as that of eating food prepared by a talented nonna.

The Roman-style menu, which will change bimonthly, is not extensive — which is a good thing. It signals a sharp focus on preparing a few things well, with quality ingredients.

We began with the appetizer special which was Burrata. Cutting through the outer casing, the soft stracciatella spilled out onto fresh arugula and cherry tomatoes which looked ordinary but through some magic tasted like summer tomatoes. The aged balsamic drizzle further elevated the dish.

Our second appetizer was Carpaccio Di Alba. Super thinly-sliced Angus tenderloin was seasoned only with salt allowing its flavour and texture to take centre stage. Topped with arugula, shaved Parmesan, a sprinkling of oil and white balsamic and a squeeze of roasted lemon made it sublime.

The main of Pescatore All Mare was a feast for the eyes with perfectly prepared scallops, shrimps and mussels in herbed tomato and white wine sauce. The Paccheri pasta is not one seen often. Kristine explained that tradition favours serving mixed seafood on these wide smooth tubes of pasta, rather than long pasta.

I was tempted by Osso Bucco (veal shank, vegetables, spirits/herbs sauce, simmered for hours with polenta) but chose the Vitello Funghi since I, too, had a craving for a bit of pasta. The tender grilled veal scallopini was topped with cremini mushrooms seared to that perfect colour, texture and taste. The veal sat upon the perfect amount of (made in-house) spaghetti and rapini — deceiving because it looked plain but garlic confit and brown butter made it memorable.

We did not order a pizza, but it was enjoyed at a nearby table and Andreis mentioned that their team will soon be joined by an award-winning pizzaiolo from Italy. One popular selection is the Bruschetta Pizza which for some diners takes the place of a bruschetta appetizer.

My obsession with Italian desserts ensured that we hung in there for that final course. Andreis said that some desserts will be homemade and one can expect tiramisu, sorbets and occasionally Zabaglione, or Pistachio crema.

Our selections were impressive desserts from the Bindi Company, founded in Milan in 1946 by Tuscan restaurateur Attilio Bindi. Photos on their website are mesmerizing. I am especially intrigued by Delizia al Limone — a sponge cake dome filled and coated with lemon cream that I saw on Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy” TV program. I’ll have sweet dreams about that.

We thoroughly enjoyed Bindi’s Cappuccino Cake — alternating layers of espresso-drenched chocolate sponge cake and coffee cream. Can anyone resist a cake called Torta della Nonna (Grandmother Cake)? Not me. The pastry cream sandwiched between short crust pastry was covered with pine nuts, almonds and powdered sugar — delicious and light.

In keeping with their Ospitalita Italiana designation, there is a well-curated wine and drinks menu.

Claudio and Kristine Andreis had a sizable, loyal fan club that kept them going with catering during the last two years. Now the doors are open on a new chapter and Claudio’s team is waiting to welcome you. Kristine considers their new neighbourhood to be “soulful” and says “Hamilton is the most wonderful city … the people are what makes Hamilton the city that it is …”

Soon they will begin offering lunch, Sunday/Saturday Brunch and a patio.

Claudio’s Ristorante

191 James St. N., Hamilton

289-389-6699

claudios.ca/

instagram.com/claudios.ca/

Hours: Thursday to Monday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Tuesday, Wednesday closed.

What I paid: Burrata $18; Carpaccio $19; Pescatore All Mare $36; Vitello Funghi $34; Cappuccino Cake $9; Torta della Nonna $9; Double Espresso $4.75

Wheelchair access: Yes

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